Sweden's Wild Side Part II - Norrland's Arctic North: Swedish Lapland
- David Maiwald
- Aug 10, 2024
- 7 min read
Updated: Feb 9
Part II of the Scandinavian Interior Series
In this article:
Laponia
Swedish Lapland encompasses Norrland’s far north, reaching from Sweden’s northernmost point up high in the Scandes mountain range to the rugged coastline along the northernmost part of the Baltic Sea. With the arctic circle running through the center of this area, part of Swedish Lapland can be attributed to the arctic polar region. This means that here you are able to experience those famous natural phenomena of the arctic such as the polar night and the midnight sun around winter solstice and midsummer respectively. But even if you are not traveling to this part of Sweden right around the solstices you can experience some very long twilight well into September as well as those short days that last well into March.
The interior backcountry of this area contains an exciting mix of unspoilt landscapes, vast protected wilderness areas, and world-class destinations for any type of outdoor activities with hiking, fishing, camping, and skiing being amongst the most popular. E45 leads right through the beautiful interior of Swedish Lapland, running from Sweden’s northern border with Finland all the way to the central provinces.
In the fall of 2023 I flew to Lulea which is roughly 2 to 3 hours from Laponia and with it the very heart of Swedish Lapland. Over the course of about one and a half weeks I explored Laponia’s vast protected wilderness, covering large parts of the region’s Scandes mountain range as well as the adjacent rugged foothills. The entire region became a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its natural and cultural significance, with a number of Scandinavia’s largest national parks and nature reserves protecting the area. This part of Swedish Lapland therefore is very sparsely populated and only partially cultivated by the region's native Sami reindeer herders. This also makes Laponia one of Scandinavia’s hot spots for wildlife viewing offering great chances to spot both moose as well as reindeer out in the wild!
Laponia contains three of Sweden’s largest and wildest national parks including Sarek and Stora Sjöfallet National Parks which protect the areas high mountains as well as Muddus National Park which protects a rugged and densely forested area in the foothills of the Scandes mountains. Once I reached the Laponian area I planned on exploring Muddus National Park on a two-day hike, staying at one of the campsites inside the park, and some parts of Sarek National Park during my one-week hike through the area along the Kungsleden long-distance trail.
Muddus National Park
One of the more easily accessible parks within Laponia is Muddus National Park with the entrance situated a short 15 minute drive from E45 in between the Porjus settlement and the small town of Jokkmokk. This park offers an exciting mix of lush forests, expansive marshes, deep canyons, and towering waterfalls well off the beaten track. Here you can explore some of Sweden’s most pristine and unspoilt wilderness areas while at the same time experiencing some true backcountry solitude, since this park is one of the less visited parks in Scandinavia’s far north.
The park’s entrance at Skáddje offers a small information station and public restrooms. This also marks the beginning of the Muddusleden hiking trail which leads into the interior of the park and offers dramatic views as you hike along the rim of a rugged canyon all the way to the towering Muddus Falls via the 16km Little Loop Trail. From here you can choose to kick back at one of the nearby picnic areas or stay overnight at the Muddusfallet camping cabin (15€ / night - instructions below) or free backcountry campsites which are fully equipped with firewood and a pit toilet. If you choose to stay here for more than one day you can continue the Muddusleden along the Large Loop Trail leading you further up into the remote northern section of the park. Completing this entire 45km loop will take you at least one additional day with several hiking cabins situated along the trail offering convenient and comfortable options for another overnight stay in the backcountry. While you will not be able to make reservations in advance you are pretty much guaranteed a free spot due to each cabin’s remoteness. You can pay the 15€ / night accommodation fee simply via bank transfer.
I myself have explored parts of Muddus National Park, hiking sections of the Muddusleden hiking trail for two days in the fall of 2023, while staying at the Njuktjajavrre backcountry campsite near the Muddus Falls in the heart of the park. This campsite was located on an incredibly picturesque peninsula in the middle of the marshes offering sweeping views of the surrounding landscapes! Staying overnight in the remote and pristine arctic landscapes of Swedish Lapland, hours away from the next road, was a memorable experience. The entire area was covered in perfect stillness during the seemingly never ending golden and blue hours around sunset. However, the next morning I got to experience some of the typical unsettled weather of the far north when I had to hike back to the park’s entrance through wind and rain - a typical Swedish Lapland experience!
Quick facts about Muddus National Park:
how to get there: turn off E45 26km north of Jokkmokk / 15min drive from E45
perfect for: hiking, wildlife viewing, camping, watching the northern lights
best routes: Muddusleden Little Loop: easy to moderate 24km (full day to two-day) hiking trail with one campsite and one cabin along the way / Muddusleden Large Loop: moderate 45km (at least two-day) hiking trail with several cabins along the way
best campsites / cabins: Muddusfallet Cabin (12 beds) / tent pitch Njuktjajávrre (Top Pick!)
fees: no fees for park admission or campsites / 15€ per night for cabins
services: toilets and nature walk at south entrance / pit toilets at cabins and campsites / free firewood at cabins and campsites / kitchen at cabins / no cell service!
important links: https://laponia.nu/en/ / https://laponia.nu/en/nationalparks-and-nature-reserves/muttos-muddus/ / https://laponia.nu/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/Muttos-stugor-eng.pdf
Sarek National Park
South of Muddus National Park and just five minutes north of Jokkmokk - one of the larger villages of Swedish Lapland - a small paved road winds its way to the wild and rugged mountains of Sarek National Park. With Kvikkjokk at the far end of this road a particularly picturesque yet extremely remote mountain village serves as a local hub for all kinds of outdoor enthusiasts with countless fishing, hiking, and hunting opportunities in the surrounding lakes, mountains, and forests. Located along one of Sweden’s most popular long distance hiking trails, this village further offers a convenient and easily accessible point of entry to the Kungsleden trail roughly 1.5hrs and 112km from E45.
About one hour or 70km from E45 the small settlement of Tjåmotis marks the beginning of an unpaved road that leads deep into the remote wilderness of Laponia. After another 20km you will eventually reach Sitoälvsbron - a bridge that marks the beginning of a hiking trail. There is a simple parking lot nearby that offers no services so be sure to make your last pit stop at Jokkmokk to stock up before you head up here. The parking lot is the starting point for a hike into some of the most beautiful regions in all of Laponia. The first section marks a moderate and picture perfect hike leading roughly 17km or 4hrs through lush forests, along beautiful lakeshores, and across vast marshes. While there are no technically difficult passages the trail itself can be rough and is not too well maintained at some points. However, this journey is well worth it as this takes you to Aktse - the perfect base camp for a variety of outdoor adventures in the middle of Laponia’s backcountry!
Sometimes referred to as the gate to Sarek National Park, Aktse is located in one of Europe’s most spectacular and pristine landscapes. A former farmstead, it is now serving as a mountain hut along the Kungsleden trail, offering several options for truly adventurous yet comfortable overnight stays. Managed by the Swedish Tourist Association (STF) it is officially open for business from mid June thru mid September and consists of several buildings containing a front office, small convenience store, vault toilets, an outdoor shower, a sauna, cabins with bunk beds, wood-fired ovens, small kitchens, as well as a separate private cabin. For those bringing their own tent there also are tent sites available. There is no electricity and no running water but the STF offers free firewood for all ovens as well as gas for the kitchen stoves in the cabins, and water is available at a water pump.
This is where I spent a couple of days during my visit to the area in the fall of 2023 when I hiked along the Kungsleden long-distance hiking trail for roughly one week. I immediately fell in love with the picture perfect location of this remote outpost at the foot of the prominent Skierffe mountain. Using the hut as a basecamp I explored the stunning landscape around the nearby river valley, where I got to see some moose and large herds of reindeer up close. Several vantage points along the lakeshore and all over the plateaus of nearby Skierffe mountain offered sweeping views all the way to the towering mountains located in the heart of Sarek National Park. Just a few hundred meters from the eastern park boundaries Akste therefore was the perfect starting point to explore “Europe's last great wilderness”. A detailed description of my entire hike can be found in my Kungsleden article.
Quick facts about Aktse:
how to get there: turn off E45 6km north of Jokkmokk / 1hr drive from E45 + full day hike to Aktse & Skierffe
perfect for: hiking, camping, wildlife viewing, watching the northern lights
best routes: Sitoälvsbron to Aktse (Top Pick!): moderate out-and-back two-day hike of roughly 17km or 4hrs (one way) / Aktse to Skierffe: moderate out-and-back full-day hike of roughly 7km or 2.5hrs (one way)
fees: no fees for park admission / 40€ per night for cabins at Aktse
services: no services at parking lot / basic amenities at STF Aktse / free firewood / no cell service!
important links: https://laponia.nu/en/ / https://www.swedishtouristassociation.com/facilities/stf-aktse-mountain-cabin/
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