Part IV of the Scandinavian Interior Series
In this article:
Days 6 thru 8 - Explore the Glaskogens Nature Reserve
About 3hrs south of Malung and one hour off E45 in the Värmland backcountry lies the Glaskogens Nature Reserve. A vast protected landscape in the remote foothills of the Scandes mountains’ southern edge which is characterized by countless lakes, secluded bays, and idyllic islands in the middle of a densely forested area. The heart of this reserve is centered around the two largest lakes of Stora Gla and Övre Gla as well as Lenungshammar - a small and incredibly picturesque settlement offering a visitor center, idyllic and well-developed camping spots, the area’s largest canoe and kayak rental, and a bus station which means this reserve can be reached by car and by bus.
The area around the reserve’s two largest lakes is well developed for any kind of outdoor activities throughout the year. A large network of hiking trails and shelters along the shoreline offers great ways to explore the reserve by either foot during the summer or via cross country skiing during the winter. Some shelters and campsites can also be reached by car via unpaved forest service roads - a convenient way to enjoy this pristine wilderness with your camper or RV. However, by far the best way to explore this haven for outdoor enthusiasts is to rent a canoe or kayak and go on a multi-day paddle tour across the lakes. This will let you set up camp anywhere with countless secluded shelters that can only be reached by boat as well as beautiful “wild” camping spots on one of the numerous islands. All official shelters come with a fire pit, an actual shelter for rough weather, pit toilets, and complementary firewood.
All you have to do before starting your outdoor adventure is get the Glaskogen Conservation Card for the length of your stay which will let you use all of the reserve’s infrastructure and resources - note that you will have to make a separate reservation if you choose to stay at the official campground in Lenungshammar. You will further have to get a fishing permit if you are planning on fishing in any of the roughly 80 lakes within the reserve which is an incredibly rewarding experience. Both, the Glaskogen Conservation Card as well as the fishing permit can be purchased either online or at the visitor center in Lenungshammar. Once you have your permits all that is left for you to do is pack your camping and fishing gear as well as your supplies and venture out into this beautiful wilderness!
Lenungshammar is the perfect starting point for countless full-day and multi-day hikes with many of the reserve’s hiking trails starting right here, running along much of the Stora Gla and Övre Gla shorelines. The most beautiful of which is a loop trail along the southern portion of Övre Gla with numerous opportunities to go for a swim and enjoy the pristine Swedish wilderness along the way. Övre Gla also offers the most convenient starting point for full-day or multi-day paddle tours since the canoe and kayak rental is located right at the lake’s southernmost tip. On a single day you will be able to cover some of the southernmost portion of the lake. If you want to explore the entire lake then plan for at least two days as you will be paddling at least 30km with numerous idyllic islands, fishing spots, secluded bays, beaches, and beautiful viewpoints along the way. If you are visiting during the summer months in between June and August, be prepared for long and sunny days on the water (pack lots of sunscreen!) and stunningly beautiful sunsets with golden hours that seem to last forever! All in all, if you are in the area of Värmland you should most definitely plan for a stop at Glaskogens Nature Reserve - you will not be disappointed!
Quick facts about the Glaskogens Nature Reserve:
how to get there: turn off E45 in Åmål (1hr drive) coming from the south or Torsby (2hrs drive) coming from the north
perfect for: hiking, camping, canoeing, wildlife viewing, cross country skiing, snow mobiling, watching the northern lights
best routes: Övre Gla and Stora Gla offer single-day and multi-day routes for canoeing starting in Lenungshammar / Övre Gla hiking trail north of Lenungshammar is a moderate 10km loop trail (Top Pick!)
best huts: Södra Sundsudden (Top Pick!)
fees: Glaskogen Conservation Card from 4.50€ per day / fishing licence from 13€ per day
services: all basic services at Lenungshammar / no or only partial cell service
important links: https://www.glaskogen.se/en/
Days 8 & 9 - Travel to Gothenburg:
The final leg of this road trip will take you back into civilization via a three hour drive all the way to Gothenburg and the North Sea. On this final part of the journey you will be traveling through Dalsland which is known as the region with the highest density of lakes in all of Sweden - considering the total amount of lakes in Sweden, this fact truly stands out. Coming from Glaskogens Nature Reserve you will therefore pass by countless spots to stop and pause at beautiful shorelines - this will be one of your final opportunities to once more take in some of that iconic natural beauty of Sweden. While the area around Glaskogen and northern Dalsland is very sparsely populated this pristine natural landscape will gradually change into a primarily cultural landscape the closer you are getting towards Uddevalla and Trollhättan, both around 100km or roughly one hour from Gothenburg. However, while you will leave Sweden’s wild side behind as you return to civilization, remain alert and keep your eyes open for those notorious moose along the road - I myself have spotted them as far south as Uddevalla! Before reaching either of those cities, be sure to make a final stop in Haverud and marvel at the Dalsland Canal - one of Dalsland’s most popular attractions.
Once you have reached Gothenburg you will be greeted by a bustling city that is beautifully situated along the picturesque west coast of southern Sweden. Sweden’s second largest city Gothenburg offers all kinds of shopping and sightseeing while at the same time being just a short drive from one of the largest archipelagos in Scandinavia. A perfect combination for an exciting day of strolling through the city’s historic center with all its shops and restaurants followed by a visit to one of Gothenburg’s many idyllic beaches where you can kick back and enjoy one of Sweden’s long sunsets over the countless islands off the coast. A great spot to finish the day as well as a memorable road trip through Scandinavia’s less traveled wild interior. For your return trip back home Gothenburg is just the ideal starting point with the E6 highway offering a direct route to Norway and Denmark, a ferry connecting the city directly with Denmark and Germany, and Gothenburg International Airport.
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