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Writer's pictureDavid Maiwald

Sweden's Wild Side Part III - Västerbotten, Jämtland & Dalarna

Updated: Nov 2

Part III of the Scandinavian Interior Series


In this article:


The interior regions along E45 in Sweden’s central provinces of Västerbotten and Jämtland are mostly characterized by rolling hills, endless forests, and countless lakes. Here you will pass through small and mostly quiet towns and villages that become more frequent as you approach the city of Östersund. South of Östersund, as you approach the province of Dalarna, the scenery will slowly change into a more rugged and mountainous landscape with a large concentration of ski resorts in between Östersund and Mora. Central Sweden therefore offers an exciting mix of both, natural as well as cultural attractions for any type of outdoor adventure.


Day 3 - Travel to Östersund

Driving from Laponia towards the southern border of the province of Norrbotten you will slowly return to civilization as you pass by the small town of Arvidsjaur and subsequently leave the extremely remote regions of Swedish Lapland behind. The following 450km passage along E45 in between Swedish Lapland and the city of Östersund will lead you through the rural parts of Västerbotten and Northern Jämtland. An area where the endless forests mix with more and more open fields and colorfully picturesque little villages the further south you get. 


While the comparably flat landscape with its rolling hills in this part of Sweden might not be as dramatic and rugged as the wilderness areas of the far north in Laponia you will find ample first-class destinations for all kinds of outdoor activities along the way - including canoeing and fishing at one of the area’s peaceful lakes and streams or dog sledding in the winter. Especially the area between Sorsele in Västerbotten and Strömsund in the far north of Jämtland offers a particularly high concentration of pristine lakes with countless opportunities to stop and enjoy some undisturbed peace and quiet. 


From Sorsele in northern Västerbotten you will further have the opportunity for a quick detour of around 1 to 2hrs into the high mountains west of E45 where you can explore the Vindelfjällen, Sweden’s largest nature reserve. The southernmost section of the Kungsleden long distance hiking trail passes right through this mountainous wilderness, offering an opportunity to venture into the backcountry on foot. Hemavan and Ammarnäs are both easily accessible by either car or bus and offer potential access points for either full-day hikes into this area or five-day section hikes along the Kungsleden.


Quick facts about the Vindelfjällen Nature Reserve:

  • how to get there: turn off E45 in either Sorsele to get to Ammarnäs (1hr drive) or Storuman to get to Hemavan (2hr drive)

  • perfect for: hiking, camping, wildlife viewing, cross country skiing, snow mobiling, watching the northern lights

  • best routes: the entire section hike is a moderate 78km, 5-6 day hike with 7 STF mountain huts along the trail

  • best huts: STF Tärnasjö / STF Syterstugan

  • fees: no fees for park admission or campsites / prices at STF huts vary

  • services: basic amenities at STF huts / no or only partial cell service along the trail!

  • important links: https://www.swedishtouristassociation.com/




Day 4 - Explore Östersund & Are:

Östersund is one of the largest cities in Sweden’s interior and is a good opportunity for you to restock on supplies before you continue further down south entering once again some of Sweden’s more sparsely populated regions. Located about halfway between Swedish Lapland and Gothenburg by the North Sea, Östersund also marks the end of the first half of this road trip. The city itself offers almost all of the perks of city life while at the same time being just a short drive from idyllic beaches, lush forests, and rugged mountains. The city further is one of the major transportation hubs in Sweden’s vast interior with several highways passing by and an international airport serving the area. So if you decide to cut this road trip short Östersund will be the best spot to either start or finish your journey.


The city center contains a large shopping district as well as a large variety of restaurants catering to any kind of craving you might have. Be it down-to-earth local or fancy international cuisine - here you will find it all. So make the most out of this short return to civilization before heading back into Sweden’s wild backcountry. If you are planning to stock up on supplies you will also find any major retail chain for your grocery shopping needs right here. If so far you haven’t been fortunate enough to spot any moose on your road trip head to the Moose Garden just south of the city where you will have the opportunity to get up close with some gentle giants, feed them, and even pet them - something you neither could nor should ever attempt with their wild counterparts!


Östersund also offers plenty of outdoor activities: Located along the shores of lake Storsjön the area around the city boasts countless spots for some laid back beach time or all kinds of water sports during the summer. Just a few minutes outside the city lies the island of Frösön with lush forests, idyllic beaches, and some of the best viewpoints in the area with sweeping views of the surrounding landscape all the way to the Scandes mountains in the west. Here you will also find some of the best spots to watch the sunset over lake Storsjön. About an hour west of the city lies Åre - a prime destination for hiking and mountain biking during the summer and one of the largest and most popular ski resorts in all of Scandinavia during the winter. This makes the greater Östersund area a popular tourist destination year round!


Quick facts about Östersund & Åre:

  • how to get there: Östersund lies along the major routes of E14 and E45 and is served by the Östersund International Airport / Åre is situated along E14 (1.5hrs drive from Östersund / 2.5hrs drive from Trondheim, Norway)

  • perfect for: Åre offers prime mountain biking, hiking, and skiing

  • important links: https://aresweden.com/en/




Days 5 & 6 - Explore the Jämtlands- and Härjedalsfjällen:

Off the beaten track yet incredibly wild and exciting - this sums up perfectly the regions of Jämtlandsfjällen and Härjedalsfjällen. Leaving Östersund behind and continuing your road trip along E45 further down south you will reach the rugged scenery of the Jämtland and Härjedal mountains in the far south of Jämtland and northern Dalarna. This region boasts one of the highest concentrations of ski resorts in all of Scandinavia which makes the area in between Österund, Mora, and the Swedish-Norwegian border a popular travel destination, especially during the winter months. However, the remote backcountry of southern Jämtland and northern Dalarna in between the numerous ski resorts of the Scandinavian Mountains also offers an incredibly dramatic and pristine landscape with world-class hiking trails which is why the Härjedalen area is well worth visiting year-round. Here you will also find some of the southernmost Sami settlements along with their large reindeer herds in one of Sweden’s most beautiful unspoilt landscapes that is truly off the beaten track.

 

To get to this area turn off E45 just south of Åsarna which is about one hour south of Östersund and follow the road west into the mountains which leads through the ski resorts of Klövsjö/​Storhogna and Vemdalsskalet. Right in the heart of the Härjedalen area - in between the resort towns of Vemdalen to the north and Idre to its south – lies this vast, mostly untouched, and extremely sparsely populated stretch of land. An incredible wilderness where you will enjoy some breathtaking and far-reaching views across endless high plains and sparse fjäll birch forests all the way to the high mountains of nearby Norway. These otherworldly primeval, glacier-carved landscapes seem far away from civilization and the well-developed ski resorts in the north, south, and east of this area. And in fact, with little to no infrastructure along the roughly 140km from Vemdalen to Idre you will find yourself in a similarly serene and remote stretch of land as Swedish Lapland up north. The fact that you are once again in Sami country – covering the most remote stretches of the Scandinavian Mountains from here all the way to Swedish Lapland - with reindeer herds roaming the mountains just adds to the sense of adventure when traveling through Härjedalen.

 


The high mountains of southern Jämtland and northern Dalarna are a dream destination for outdoor enthusiasts, nature lovers, and adventure seekers with an exceptionally dense cluster of national parks located in and around the Härjedalen area. This means that you will find plenty of wildlife viewing, hiking, and camping opportunities in this area. The best travel route through this wilderness runs along the paved Lofsdalsvägen and the unpaved Foskrosvägen. Both are incredibly scenic yet remote roads across high plateaus and through lush river valleys where you will be mostly by yourselves. Keep an eye out for reindeer and moose which are both very common in this area and can be easily spotted from your car! Along the way you will find beautiful picnic areas, camping spots, and hiking trails.



Make sure to also visit at least one of the area’s national parks, with Fulufjällets National Park south of Härjedalen being one of the largest. Located just south of the small resort town of Idre, Fulufjällets National Park can be easily reached by car and offers all basic services and amenities at the park’s entrance including a visitor center and a restaurant. There is a large network of hiking trails which lead you through dense forests and past towering waterfalls all the way up to the vast plateau of this fjäll landscape with stunning and far-reaching views of the surrounding wilderness. One highlight of the park is the “Old Tjikko” spruce tree – one of the oldest trees in the world being approximately 10,000 years old!

 

For those of you looking to hike further into the park there are two mountain huts managed by the Swedish Tourist Association (STF) that offer comfortable opportunities for an overnight stay in the backcountry. The STF huts are part of the Södra Kungsleden long-distance hiking trail which runs through the Fulufjällets National Park. This less popular southern counterpart of Swedish Lapland’s “official” Kungsleden runs a total of roughly 400km traversing both, the Jämtlandsfjällen as well as the Härjedalsfjällen, thus offering further opportunities for potential day and multi-day hikes throughout the region. About 90km south of the park’s entrance lies the Scandinavian Mountains International Airport. If you wish to cut your road trip short this airport is another good spot to either start or finish your journey. If you choose to continue your road trip from here you will have to drive for another 80km or about one hour until you reach the city of Malung and with it E45.


Quick facts about the Jämtlands & Härjedalsfjällen:

  • how to get there: turn off E45 south of Åsarna (1hr drive from Östersund) and drive west / Fulufjällets National Park is 1hr south of Idre and 1.5hrs north of Sälen International Airport

  • perfect for: hiking, camping, wildlife viewing, skiing

  • best routes: Lofsdalsvägen & Foskrosvägen offer some of the most scenic drives through Sweden’s interior (Top Pick!) / Fulufjällets National Park offers easy multi-day section hikes along Södra Kungsleden as well as short and easy hikes from the park entrance up to the fjäll

  • best huts: Rösjöstugorna

  • fees: no fees for park admission or campsites / prices at huts vary

  • services: basic amenities at huts / no or only partial cell service along the trail!

  • important links: https://www.rosjostugorna.se/




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